Ever wondered how you can make mead at home? Following our recipe lets you create a technical, Odin\u2011style flavour edition without having to summon your mates (though yes, there\u2019s always the risk they\u2019ll settle on your sofa like a clan of dwarves<\/em>). <\/span><\/p>\n Key advantages of the Odin method<\/b><\/p>\n Example mead recipe info<\/b><\/p>\n Mead ingredients<\/p>\n Equipment you\u2019ll need<\/b><\/p>\n So\u2026 how do you actually make mead? Contrary to what everyone thinks, making mead is far simpler than it seems \u2014 the hard part is making it good. And for that, we\u2019ll explain how to craft a mead worthy of the halls of Valhalla using nothing more than everyday household gear.<\/p>\n Let\u2019s begin.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/strong><\/p>\n The first thing you need to do is look for good honey. Ideally, buy it directly from a beekeeper. Supermarket honey can work, though it\u2019s usually not great quality \u2014 but don\u2019t worry if you can\u2019t get anything better. Many of us started with low\u2011tier honeys because they\u2019re cheaper, letting you experiment more at the beginning without risking a premium batch. <\/span><\/p>\n If you want to know how to recognise good honey, I recommend checking our secrets section where we explain it. And watch out for honey substitutes (seriously).<\/p>\n As for the yeast, this will be responsible for starting fermentation and turning water and honey into delicious mead. For the Odin\u2011method recipe, the ideal choice is beer or wine yeast of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae variety, but you can also use fresh yeast from the supermarket. We mean those little cubes in the refrigerated section used for baking \u2014 because bread yeast also ferments, and it will work for your mead recipe -. Be careful not to buy chemical \u201cbaking powder\u201d yeast from sachets; that\u2019s not yeast at all. Make sure it\u2019s fresh yeast.<\/p>\n Finally, keep in mind that specific wine or beer yeasts will make your mead ferment faster. Otherwise, the process may take several extra days.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n <\/strong><\/p>\n To avoid contamination, you\u2019ll need a pot where you can heat water and boil all the equipment you\u2019re going to use – except the thermometer! Don\u2019t boil the thermometer unless you want it exploding in your face. If it can measure up to 100\u00b0C, it\u2019s enough to submerge it in hot water without letting it touch the bottom of the pot. Otherwise, wash it thoroughly with soap and water. <\/span><\/p>\n <\/strong><\/p>\n In a measuring jug that reaches 1 L, pour 220 ml of honey (315 g) and then fill it with water until the total volume of the honey\u2011and\u2011water mixture reaches 1 L. At this point, if your mead must isn\u2019t at 23\u201325\u00b0C, you\u2019ll need to pour the mixture into a pot and heat it until it reaches 25\u00b0C. If you don\u2019t have a thermometer at home, it\u2019s better not to heat it \u2014 or just give it a quick warm\u2011up to \u201ckill the cold\u201d. <\/span><\/p>\n If you overshoot the temperature, you can cool it down by filling the sink with cold tap water and placing the pot inside so the temperature drops back to 25\u00b0C.<\/span><\/p>\n Once this is done, transfer the mixture to the container where you\u2019ll ferment it and add the yeast.<\/span><\/p>\n But don\u2019t think you\u2019re going to add the yeast the way you\u2019d sprinkle salt on chickpeas (you could, technically, but it\u2019s not ideal). <\/span><\/p>\n Take a clean glass and add 25 ml of water \u2014 roughly a finger\u2019s depth. This water must be at 25\u00b0C to reactivate the yeast. Mix the yeast with the water and wait 10 minutes. Then add it to the honey\u2011and\u2011water mixture. Always use natural mineral water without chlorine.<\/b><\/p>\n Once the yeast is added, close the fermenter with an airlock, or if not, with a balloon from a bargain shop and a needle prick.<\/span> If you don\u2019t protect your mead from oxygen during fermentation, it will get contaminated.<\/span><\/p>\n VERY IMPORTANT: use chlorine\u2011free water for the entire process \u2014 bottled water works perfectly.<\/span><\/p>\n Your mead recipe is almost ready!<\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n <\/strong><\/p>\n To store the fermenter during the process and achieve a mead with a proper technical profile, you\u2019ll need to choose a place that:<\/span><\/p>\n You\u2019ll know the fermentation has begun because you\u2019ll see bubbles rising from the bottom. Also, the balloon you pricked and placed on the mouth of the demijohn or bottle will be inflated. <\/span><\/p>\n <\/strong><\/p>\n The reason the Odin method is one of the simplest and most efficient ways to make a good mead is that it lets you bottle it at the exact sweetness level you want \u2014 and ensures a stable, long\u2011lasting mead without re\u2011fermentation in the bottles, which would otherwise ruin your batch.<\/span><\/p>\n From day 5 or 6 of fermentation onwards, you\u2019ll need to start tasting your mead. I recommend using a long syringe to extract the samples you\u2019ll be testing. Ideally, sterilise the syringe in boiling water \u2014 or at the very least make sure it\u2019s completely clean. <\/span><\/p>\n Once you notice your mead is no longer overly sweet and starts becoming semi\u2011dry, it will be roughly 10% alcohol. If you bottle a bit earlier, it will be around 8%. With a hydrometer you could know the exact alcohol level, but we won\u2019t go into that here \u2014 this Odin\u2011style recipe only uses items you can find in a normal kitchen. <\/span><\/p>\n When it reaches the sweetness level you like, take a flexible tube and siphon the mead into the bottles using the \u201ccommunicating vessels\u201d method. You can reuse bottles, but they must be properly clean. <\/span><\/p>\n Also, try not to bottle the sediment from the fermenter.<\/span><\/p>\n Then close the bottles and pasteurise them following the Odin pasteurisation method. But remember to follow all precautions \u2014 bottles can explode during pasteurisation. Once this is done, your mead is ready. Chill the bottles in the fridge and offer your creation to the gods of Asgard \u2014 hopefully they\u2019ll leave some for your friends.<\/p>\n Note 1: The fermentation times mentioned apply when using yeasts like Safale T58 from Fermentis or similar. If you use bread yeast, the process may take longer. [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” width=”90%” max_width=”1350px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.23.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Title” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Helvetica LT 57 condensed||||||||” text_text_color=”#000000″ header_font=”|600||on|||||” header_text_align=”left” header_font_size=”65px” header_letter_spacing=”-1px” header_2_font=”|600||on|||||” header_2_text_align=”left” header_2_text_color=”#000000″ header_2_font_size=”45px” header_2_letter_spacing=”-1px” header_3_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” header_3_text_align=”left” header_3_text_color=”#D69638″ header_3_font_size=”35px” header_3_letter_spacing=”-1px” header_4_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” header_4_text_align=”left” header_4_font_size=”30px” header_4_letter_spacing=”-1px” header_5_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” header_5_text_align=”left” header_5_text_color=”#D69638″ header_5_font_size=”20px” header_5_letter_spacing=”-1px” header_6_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” header_6_font_size=”18px” text_orientation=”left” min_height=”0px” custom_margin=”0px|0px|0px||false|false” custom_padding=”0px|0px|0px||false|false” header_font_size_tablet=”60px” header_font_size_phone=”55px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” header_3_text_color_tablet=”#D69638″ header_3_text_color_phone=”#D69638″ header_3_text_color_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_3_font_size_tablet=”35px” header_3_font_size_phone=”35px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_text_shadow_style=”none” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_accordion open_toggle_text_color=”#D69638″ open_toggle_background_color=”RGBA(255,255,255,0)” closed_toggle_text_color=”#000000″ closed_toggle_background_color=”RGBA(255,255,255,0)” toggle_icon=”||fa||400″ icon_color=”#0A2D61″ _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” toggle_text_color=”#000000″ toggle_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” toggle_font_size=”20px” toggle_letter_spacing=”-1px” closed_toggle_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed|||on|||||” closed_toggle_font_size=”18px” closed_toggle_letter_spacing=”-1px” closed_toggle_line_height=”1.4em” body_font=”Helvetica LT 57 condensed||||||||” body_text_color=”#000000″ toggle_font_size_tablet=”18px” toggle_font_size_phone=”18px” toggle_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” body_font_size_tablet=”15px” body_font_size_phone=”14px” body_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” border_width_all=”2px” border_color_all=”gcid-329bf2a0-2bc9-40c4-96ad-cacaec2a4af6″ locked=”off” global_colors_info=”{%22gcid-329bf2a0-2bc9-40c4-96ad-cacaec2a4af6%22:%91%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22body_text_color%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22body_text_color%22,%22border_color_all%22,%22border_color_all%22%93}”][et_pb_accordion_item title=” The five secrets of the Odin method” open=”on” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” body_font=”||||||||” global_colors_info=”{}” toggle_text_color=”#D69638″ toggle_font=”Helvetica LT 67 Medium Condensed||||||||”]<\/p>\n Our method is based on five fundamental pillars. We\u2019ve called them \u201csecrets\u201d because for years this was genuinely information reserved for our own production. <\/span><\/p>\n You may be wondering\u2026 And how come you\u2019re revealing your manufacturing secrets now? The answer is simpler than it seems \u2014 but first I\u2019ll tell you what those secrets are, and at the end (so you don\u2019t get bored if you don\u2019t want to read it all), I\u2019ll explain why. <\/span><\/p>\n Here are the secrets in order of importance for us, starting with the basics and ending with the ones that have been truly key. Let\u2019s begin.<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”First secret: learn to identify honey quality ” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Many times we go to the supermarket and buy honey without realising it may be adulterated with glucose syrup or simply be very low\u2011quality honey. Sometimes they even try to pass off molasses as honey, calling it \u201ccane honey\u201d or similar names. Then there\u2019s the important matter of origin. While it\u2019s true that every country has excellent honeys, the ones arriving from places like Argentina or China at very competitive prices are usually low\u2011quality. <\/span> Lastly, and no less important: taste the honey.If it\u2019s not very floral and tastes like caramel, it probably contains glucose syrup or the bees were fed with syrups. [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Second secret: maximising thermal control” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Fermentation temperature is crucial for producing good mead \u2014 it can be the difference between Thor himself showing up to taste your batch, or your mead going straight to the toilet.<\/span><\/p>\n You should know that yeast, being a living microorganism, is very affected by temperature. Depending on the yeast strain you choose, it will have a specific working temperature range, but most perform well between 20\u00b0C and 23\u00b0C at room temperature. They generate their own heat during fermentation, so if the room is at 25\u00b0C, they\u2019ll push the mead up to 27\u201328\u00b0C. But if the temperature drops below 18\u00b0C with yeasts like Safale T58, you\u2019ll see fermentation practically stall. [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Third secret: identifying whether it\u2019s fermenting properly” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Every time you approach the fermenter to watch the CO\u2082 bubbles rise \u2014 or simply to fantasise about the day you\u2019ll finally taste the result \u2014 how do you know if things are going well? How can you tell whether your yeast is comfortably enjoying a glorious honey feast, or struggling to metabolise a single miserable molecule of fructose? <\/span><\/p>\n Two tricks to know if your mead is fermenting properly:<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Fourth secret: avoiding contamination” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Many people aren\u2019t aware that we\u2019re surrounded by microorganisms \u2014 they\u2019re everywhere. On the table, on your hands, in the pot, in the honey, in the fermenter\u2026 <\/span><\/p>\n These microorganisms aren\u2019t always harmful. In fact, in mead, flavour doesn\u2019t depend solely on the yeast you add; there\u2019s an entire microbial flora that complements fermentation.<\/span><\/p>\n While the microorganisms naturally present in honey aren\u2019t necessarily harmful for mead\u2011making, many others are. And most of the time, they appear due to poor hygiene. <\/span><\/p>\n One of the easiest defects to encounter is a vinegar aroma, produced by acetic bacteria, which transform the alcohol created by the yeast into vinegar. <\/span><\/p>\n The best way to avoid this is a proper sterilisation process for all equipment before use. If possible, it\u2019s worth buying specific cleaning and sterilising products from shops specialising in wine or beer making. These products work perfectly. <\/span><\/p>\n Another common contamination comes from oxygen exposure. When you prepare the mixture, it\u2019s good for the honey\u2011and\u2011water must to be in contact with air, since oxygen dissolves into the liquid and helps the yeast. But once you add the yeast to start fermentation, you must use an airlock so the gas produced can escape while preventing air from entering and contaminating the batch. <\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Fifth secret: pasteurisation \u2014 the cornerstone of sweet mead” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n This has always been the best\u2011kept secret among mead makers, because it\u2019s one of the pillars that holds the entire craft together. Very few producers are willing to talk openly about their pasteurisation process \u2014 but we\u2019re ready to break that silence and give you the guidelines you need to do it properly, without bottling little grenades waiting to turn your living room into a masclet\u00e0. <\/span><\/p>\n Why is pasteurisation so important in mead?<\/b> The answer is simple: you don\u2019t want a bottle exploding on your table or in your fridge. When you bottle a sweet, low\u2011alcohol mead, there are still fermentable sugars left. Fermentation continues inside the bottle, pressure builds up, and two things can happen: Can you make mead without pasteurising?<\/b> Yes, you can.But if you want your mead ready in two weeks instead of six months, and under 12% alcohol, the Odin method is the way to go. <\/span><\/p>\n What equipment do you need?<\/b> A pot. Something to place at the bottom so the bottles don\u2019t touch the metal directly. A thermometer that measures up to 100\u00b0C.<\/span> How long and at what temperature?<\/b><\/p>\n Place the bottles in hot water, making sure they don\u2019t touch the bottom. [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Why are we revealing our secret?” _builder_version=”4.27.6″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n At this point, your mead will be ready to chill and drink whenever you like. If you\u2019ve followed all the steps of the Odin method, you\u2019ll end up with a stable, delicious recipe with a solid technical profile.<\/p>\n Finally \u2014 and as promised \u2014 here\u2019s why we\u2019re revealing the Odin method:<\/p>\n We\u2019re convinced that if people start making quality meads at home and sharing them with those around them, a growing gastronomic culture around mead will begin to take shape. And that\u2019s a huge benefit for us as producers because, let\u2019s be honest, it will increase the number of fans of this drink that was already vintage before the world had tutorials \u2014 and therefore, it will also increase the number of our customers. 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How to make homemade mead<\/h3>\n
1) \u00a1Qu\u00e9 no te enga\u00f1en! Compra la miel y la levadura adecuadas. <\/strong><\/h4>\n
2) Good mead equals good hygiene<\/strong><\/h4>\n
The proper process is to first wash everything you\u2019re going to use with soap and water, and then place it in boiling water for at least 10 minutes to sterilise it.
Ideally, the container you\u2019ll use for fermentation should also get a 10\u2011minute hot\u2011water bath. It needs to be properly clean.
<\/span><\/p>\n3) How to make mead and mix it properly from the very beginning<\/strong><\/h4>\n
With a plastic kitchen measuring jug, this is super easy.<\/p>\n4) Time to ferment<\/strong><\/h4>\n
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At this point, you\u2019ll discover what true impatience feels like \u2014 watching the bubbles rise while you chew your nails, waiting for the moment you can finally fill your tankard and taste the result.<\/p>\n5) Bottling and pasteurising. The Odin method mead has fermented<\/strong><\/h4>\n
<\/span>You\u2019ll need to protect your eyes with sealed safety goggles, as well as any skin that could be exposed if a bottle bursts.<\/span>
<\/span>Heat increases pressure, and if you delay pasteurising after bottling, the bottles may build up gas, which will increase even more with temperature. In the video we give a few extra tips on this. <\/span>
<\/span>If you don\u2019t let the bottles build up gas, it\u2019s very unlikely they\u2019ll explode \u2014 but it\u2019s still a risk you must always keep in mind to protect yourself.<\/span>
<\/span>
<\/span>To pasteurise, place all the bottles in a pot without letting them touch the bottom directly, and heat them. Leave one bottle open so you can measure its temperature. When it reaches 73\u00b0C, remove it immediately from the pot and let it cool at room temperature to complete the process. <\/span><\/p>\n
Note 2: Low temperatures can almost halt fermentation and extend the process significantly, while high temperatures will damage your mead. Fermentation temperature ranges are usually indicated by each yeast supplier.<\/i><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\nSome secrets<\/h3>\n
You should know that honey can only come from bees, and one way to check whether it\u2019s 100% honey or adulterated is to put it in the fridge and see if it crystallises. Crystallisation at low temperatures is a guarantee of quality \u2014 if it isn\u2019t pure, it won\u2019t crystallise (at least European varieties won\u2019t).
Another simple way to check its purity is to read the ingredients: it should only say \u201choney\u201d. It may sound obvious, but it can save you from buying a honey substitute.<\/p>\n
<\/span>And yes \u2014 Argentina and China absolutely do have excellent honeys. But those aren\u2019t the ones you\u2019ll find cheap in the supermarket. <\/span>
<\/span>The issue with these low\u2011cost honeys is that beekeepers often feed bees with glucose syrups to increase production. And honey produced by bees that consume large amounts of syrup results in low\u2011quality honey. <\/span>
<\/span>We\u2019d bet our hand \u2014 or a first\u2011edition RPG manual \u2014 that this fact caught you off guard and without any faith points left.<\/span>
<\/span>You can use these honeys perfectly well, but it\u2019s better to make sure they come from your region or country.<\/span><\/p>\n
Here\u2019s some homework:
Take one jar of honey you know isn\u2019t good quality and another that is. Taste one, then the other\u2026 you\u2019ll notice the difference.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s simple: you can\u2019t work properly under 40\u00b0C in full sun, nor at \u20134\u00b0C in a climate colder than your ex\u2019s heart. Yeast is exactly the same.<\/p>\n
And that\u2019s without mentioning that high temperatures are the perfect environment for unwanted microorganisms to reproduce, generating off\u2011flavours and unpleasant aromas. Yeast exposed to high temperatures will also produce undesirable notes.<\/p>\n\n
<\/span>It\u2019s not considered a defect if it\u2019s part of the recipe\u2019s expected profile.<\/span>
<\/span>So, if you detect a floral\u2011green\u2011apple aroma, you\u2019re on the right path.<\/span>
<\/span>The flavour should be sweet, with nuances from the honey you used. It may also remind you of sweet cider, or show fruity notes like pear or banana if it\u2019s fermenting at a warm \u2014 but not excessive \u2014 temperature. <\/span>
<\/span>After a few days, taste your mead again. The green\u2011apple notes should start decreasing, though other fruity notes may remain if they were generated.<\/span>
<\/span>If you detect aromas like egg, cooked vegetables, or sewer, these are classic signs of contamination \u2014 a clear indication your batch is heading straight for the drain. If this happens, don\u2019t get discouraged. It\u2019s normal for a batch to get contaminated, especially when you\u2019re starting out. <\/span>
<\/span>If your mead becomes too fruity, try placing it somewhere cooler. This means it\u2019s producing a lot of esters, likely due to high temperatures, and this can lead to various types of contamination.<\/span><\/li>\n
<\/b><\/p>\n
When you open it, you get a geyser of foam.
It explodes in your face.
Pasteurisation stops fermentation and locks your mead at the exact sweetness and alcohol level it had at bottling time.<\/p>\n
<\/b><\/p>\n
<\/b><\/p>\n
<\/span>And remember: heating the bottles increases internal pressure, and they can explode. So you must take proper precautions: <\/span>
<\/span>Wear a protective face shield (like the ones used for angle\u2011grinder work).Wear gloves \u2014 leather if possible. Protect any exposed skin.<\/span>
<\/span>If you do everything correctly, no bottle should explode \u2014 but you never know.<\/span>
<\/span>You can pasteurise carbonated or still mead. Recycled beer bottles work for carbonated mead.Wine bottles work for still mead. The more carbonation, the higher the risk of explosion; the less carbonation, the lower the risk. <\/span>
<\/span>Pasteurisation is done after sealing the bottles hermetically.<\/span><\/p>\n
Leave one bottle filled with water instead of mead \u2014 this is the one you\u2019ll measure with the thermometer, since the others are sealed.Measure the temperature at the bottom of the bottle and let it rise to 70\u00b0C.Once it reaches that temperature, remove the bottles from the pot and let them cool at room temperature.
Do not put them in the fridge or in cold water \u2014 the thermal shock can break the glass (and the fridge won\u2019t appreciate it either).<\/p>\n
With nothing more to add: may Odin accompany your mead.<\/b> <\/p>\nHave you tried our recipe yet?<\/h2>\n
Authenticity in every sip<\/h2>\n